Newfoundland South Coast
We were now in new territory, places we've never visited before. It feels like a bit of a turning point as our current planned route means we'll only be in new to us places essentially from now on, indefinitely? Harbour Le Cou didn't dissapoint as a new spot to visit either. We came in and left the fog outside the entrance to the fjord. There is a small fishing village just around the entrance which looked perfectly tucked inbetween the huge rocks and fog overhead. Around a few corners and we found ourselves stern tied to a tiny island in the middle of the inlet with the sound of the raging waterfall behind us.
Harbour Le Cou
You'll know lots and many things about this place from the lovely Heather's writings of all the enchantments of this fjord.
As we arrived in the morning we did the classic coffee and some sort of breakfast but didn't delay heading to land to romp around by too much. We rowed the dink back around the corners to the full view of the waterfall. Being a way out of the way of the normal accessible locals, we weren't on a hiking trial as much as bush wacking through probably where a moose had done so before. Not too high up though the tree line goes away and then its pretty easy going with low lying shrubs and huge rocks. We followed the waterfall up and found it connects to a string of ponds and lakes. The views were awesome. Really has more of an arctic feel than neighbouring Nova Scotia does even though its only 100 or so miles off.
Back aboard and unable to be idle we painted the final letters on the stern but then just took in the scenery whilst reading outside in the sunshine. Isn't it supposed to be cold up here? We have been pretty lucky thus far with the weather generally.
The next day we took off to explore another corner of the bay, hoping to get a neat photo of Karma with the waterfall in the background. Not too far up we decided maybe instead of another long hike we could do short jaunts but then row to another corner of the bay. We explored around like this before heading over to the little village. In the village we found an actual trail which went over the hill, into the fog, and to another town on the other side where one of the ferries arrives, Rose Blance.
With the wind looking good for a day hop and us realizing that the entire arc of our cruising plans this summer have more of a time crunch than we were sort of thinking when we were putsing around the Bras D'ors we decided we'd hop when possible eastwards, ultimately heading for St. Pierre et Miquelon and then St. Johns and not going up the west coast of the island.
Grand Bruit
One of the things Newfoundland is known for is "resettled communities" which are essentially outport little towns that, with their really limited access to modern amenities due to their remoteness, were given insentives for the entire town to up and leave and move to a more populated place elsewhere. There were a few waves of this and Grand Bruit is of the more modern method. All that being said there were a few people around. A friendly fellow said that maybe a half dozen houses had people through the summer and the lobster fishermen come by during their season.
We pulled in, surprised to find a huge waterfall right through the middle of a picturesque colorfull town and being "abandonded" officially the government wharf to tie alongside is free. We tied bow in facing directly at the waterfall.
Wandering around was surreal as from far it looks like a cute little town but up close it's apparent that some buildings are kept up and others haven't been touched in a while, which holes in the sides or roofs falling in. Two of the buildings have power now that comes from elsewhere apparently. The town used to have a generator which powered the town but that was removed when the town was left. Up above the town was a little lake and a nice trail, no road in or out, boat access only. Grand Bruit is definitely worth a stop if exploring the coast.
Burgeo
About the same distance east again is the town of Burgeo. Similarly located amongst a mess of tiny islands and rocks tucked up away from the incoming swell, Burgeo is a little bit larger, has road access, and is actually a living town. We rushed ashore, having arrived at 16h45 and the beer store closing at 17h00 to get Molsons as we had non and tomorrow was Canada day.
The trip in was interesting as the fog really got thick as we approached the tight channel between the rocks and islands surrounding the cove where the town was. Heather was down below watching the Furuno and the AIS while I sat in the dodger looking a whole 60 feet ahead confirming when we passed the markers, rocks, and the like. The radar is really a cool piece of kit even if ours is getting close to being an antique.
We wandered around afterwards, following the streets and loosing the town in a thick thick fog as the evening came in. Back aboard we listened to the fisherman working at the fish-facility on the wharf near to where we were anchored as we made dinner.
Ramea
Setting off east once again we were hoping to head to La Hune which is another fjord with dramatic views. We left Burgeo in light-ish winds and, of course, they were more on the nose than forcasted. No worries we were happily tacking our way along but realized after a few hours we'd have to motor to make it by not midnight. Making a few more miles tacking we discussed our options and realized we could also go to these little islands, Ramea, without having to motor. Okay then, that's that!
A group of islands with two main ones makes a perfect little channel where the town of Ramea is right in the middle. They have a fishing wharf but as the fishing is slow yachts can tie along side for a flat rate of 10$, also with the possibility of a shower, laundry, and a coffee. Cruising guides make note to say there are cool trails around so we set off in the dense fog in search of some, after a friendly fellow came over and said he saw us in Burgeo. We had him on board for a quick chat and he's exploring Newfoundland writing a book about the changing fisheries and the industry's history in the area.
People had built these little boardwalks that traverse the mushy parts of the island which makes for a very pleasant way to wander around. We did, as far as we could tell, a pretty decent chunk of the island and walked back through town. We climed this very huge staircase up to the radio towers which gave a very cool overarching view of the area. We met Brian and Bev, the husband and wife combo harbourmasters who were very chatty and let us know this year they hadn't seen yet more than 3 yachts while by the same time last year they'd seen 70! They are hoping to be more yacht friendly to bring people to the island as there are less and less people each year they said. We made sure to let everyone we know coming this way to stop.
Off to… France?
With what looked to be a favorable forcast and being just 70 miles from St. Pierre et Miquelon, we thought it prudent to head to the lands of the croissants.
