Sailing Vessel Karma

Helloooooo Haida Gwaii! While poking around in the Southern Gulf Islands, we traced the BC (British Columbia) ferries and saw that they connected to a group of islands we didn’t know existed. Sailors mentioned these islands with mystical eyes. We grew itchy to go as we learned more about the Haida and how they canoed to Alaska, to Vancouver, in their dugout canoes, how they have a language so distinct, how the tides in their lands can be 25′, how there is a black bear unique to the island teeth so long it can indulge in crab, how it served as an ice less refuge during the last ice age and now has wildly diverse fauna to show, and how people have been there for over 10,000 years.

The excitement mounted with crew in tow as we crossed the Hectic Straight to arrive at the enchanted capital, Daajing Giids. Pronounced Daw-jing geeds.

After saying ciao to Trevor, we found out there was a big festival the next day – Skidegate Days! Pronounced Skid-uh-git. We ventured to the nearby village and were immersed in the culture of the Haida.

A salmon processing competition was on the docket which consisted of 3 rounds. Two speed rounds with checks for quality and a final round to split the fillets into 3 or 4 sections to dry. They dry easily in the sun. The lady on the right in the red shirt swept the competition winning 2/3 and overall. We complemented her the next day at the convenience store. She quipped something like, “Oh that? Thanks. I haven’t processed fish for years.”

We had the most delicious fry bread. I also snagged a local delicacy which I thought was sweet. They offered soy sauce. The first bite was surprising. So it was blades of kelp with herring eggs. It is cultivated in the water and quickly harvested after the eggs are attached. The consistency was like rubber and the eggs were thickly laid. I am torn to say but I really couldn’t stomach all of it and tried to offhand it to Liam and a noble Zoe who honorably attempted.

The most novel event we partook in was a Haida canoe regatta. We kept hearing of two famous carvers, brothers in fact, who were some of a small crowd of folks continuing the carving tradition. We would meet their sister farther south and hear stories of the potlatches their family still throws. One of the brothers carved the dugout canoe which was on loan for folks to paddle for the regatta.

Zoe recruited us a motley crew from innocent bystanders and we paddled with a meager time of 7 minutes and some change around the buoy. Still ahead of the soggy ones. Another team capsized on a turn and had to be rescued by the specially staged Coasties who literally all happened to be looking the other way when it happened. Everyone on shore was hollering at them for at least a full minute.

I was very lucky and got to paddle the canoe alongside Haida folks back to the Haida Cultural Center where it is kept.

Zoe and Liam hauled my roller blades in parallel on the road as they scootered and biked in the rain. It was really memorable.

Zoe wandered off one day and found a friend and a place to park her tent when she started her bicycling days. His name is Cari and he too bikes, but around the world with his dog Harry Potter who has since passed away. He started in China and biked across to the Stans and all over Europe before heading to North America where we eventually met him although he has biked oodles more since. He named his dog such because “everyone knows how to pronounce Harry Potter.”

Eventually we booked an orientation to go to Gwaii Hanas National Park. The national park is under the joint jurisdiction of the Haida Nation as well as Parks Canada. Due to its remoteness and cultural importance to the Haida, everyone is required to go through an orientation. It is very remote so in addition to the historical orienting, navigational and logistcally bits were needed as well. There are some buildings but no services.

There is a sense this place is unique as compared to the other mainland Canadian villages of similar size. Due to the separation that is the Hecate Strait, the Haida were able to hold onto their traditions and culture when Canada was doing their best to stamp out First Nation identities. The Haida actually were granted the deed to the entire archipelago back from Canada during the time we were there. “This is the first time in Canadian history that the colonial government has recognized Indigenous Title across an entire terrestrial territory.”

We rolled up to the orientation down the road and enjoyed a rich history lesson while getting amped about the wildlife, culture, and remoteness of park.